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An oven not heating usually comes down to one failed part. Your oven won’t heat, or the temperature is so far off that nothing bakes right. In Abilene, oven calls spike every November and December — the worst time for a range to fail. Here’s what causes it, how to identify which part failed, and what repair costs in 2026.
Why Ovens Stop Heating
Gas and electric ovens fail differently. On a gas range, the igniter is almost always the culprit. On an electric range, it’s almost always the bake element or broil element. A third category — temperature that’s off but the oven does heat — usually points to a failed temperature sensor or a thermostat issue. Here’s each one in detail.
Gas Oven: Weak or Failed Igniter
This is the most common gas oven failure we see in Abilene, by a wide margin. The igniter has two jobs: it glows hot to ignite the gas, and — because it’s wired in series with the gas valve — it also draws enough current to open the valve. When the igniter weakens with age, it glows but doesn’t get hot enough to open the valve. Result: the oven clicks or glows, gas doesn’t flow, nothing lights.
A failing igniter often gives you a warning before it fully dies: the oven takes 5–10 minutes to light instead of 60–90 seconds, or it lights inconsistently. If your gas oven is slow to light or needs multiple tries, the igniter is likely on its way out.
Repair cost: $115–$190. The igniter itself is $30–60; labor brings it to the repair range. Most gas oven igniter replacements are completed same-day.
Electric Oven: Burned-Out Bake Element
The bake element is the lower coil in an electric oven that glows red during baking. When it fails, you typically see one of two things: the element doesn’t glow at all, or you spot a visible break or burn mark in the coil. An element that’s completely burned through is a hard failure — no heat on bake, though broil may still work (the broil element is separate).
Bake elements are appliance repair 101 — straightforward to replace on most brands, parts are inexpensive, and the job is typically done same-day.
Repair cost: $110–$195. Element cost varies by brand: Whirlpool and Maytag elements run $25–45; GE and Samsung elements can run $50–80. Labor is consistent regardless of brand.
Electric Oven: Burned-Out Broil Element
The broil element is the upper coil. If your oven bakes fine but broil doesn’t work, or the oven won’t reach high temperatures, the broil element is usually the cause. Like the bake element, a visual inspection often shows a clear break or burn point in the coil.
Repair cost: $110–$195. Similar cost structure to the bake element.
Temperature Off — Oven Sensor or Thermostat
If your oven heats but the temperature is consistently 25–50°F higher or lower than the setting, the oven temperature sensor is the first thing to check. The sensor is a thin probe mounted inside the oven cavity that reads the air temperature and signals the control board. A failing sensor gives inaccurate readings, leading to under- or over-heating.
You can do a rough home test: buy an inexpensive oven thermometer, set the oven to 350°F, and read what the thermometer shows after 20 minutes. If it’s more than 25°F off, call us. Sensors are inexpensive to replace and fixing one restores accurate baking without replacing the entire oven.
Repair cost: $95–$185. Sensor itself is $20–40 on most brands. Labor brings it to the repair range above.
Control Board Failure
On newer electronic ranges (Samsung, LG, Bosch, GE Profile), the control board manages all oven functions. A failed board can cause no heat, incorrect temperature, or erratic behavior across multiple functions. Control board failures are less common than elements or igniters, and considerably more expensive. If a tech diagnoses a control board on a range over 8 years old, run the 50% math before approving the repair.
Repair cost: $210–$390. Board cost varies widely by brand — Samsung and LG boards tend to run higher than Whirlpool and GE.
Quick Diagnosis Guide: Which Part Failed?
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Gas or Electric? |
|---|---|---|
| Oven clicks or glows but won’t light | Weak igniter | Gas only |
| Lower element doesn’t glow, no bake heat | Bake element burned out | Electric only |
| Bake works, broil doesn’t | Broil element burned out | Electric only |
| Oven heats but runs hot or cold | Temperature sensor | Gas or electric |
| Multiple functions broken, error codes | Control board | Gas or electric |
Should I Repair or Replace My Oven?
For most element and igniter failures, repair is the right call at any age — these are cheap parts and the repair cost rarely exceeds 30% of replacement. Where the math gets harder is a control board on an older range or a broil element on a range that’s already had multiple repairs. The 50% rule: if the repair exceeds half the replacement cost, consider replacing.
One Abilene-specific note: if you’re deciding between repairing an old electric range and buying new, newer ranges with convection and air-fry features have come down in price significantly. A $350 repair on an 11-year-old flat-top electric range that’s already had one prior repair is worth comparing against a new entry-level range at $600–$700.
Oven Repair in Abilene Before the Holidays
November and December are the busiest weeks of the year for oven repair calls in Abilene. If your oven is acting up — slow to heat, off temperature, not lighting — don’t wait until the day before Thanksgiving. We schedule same-day appointments when available and can often get to most oven calls within 24 hours.
Diagnostic fee is $75, applied toward the repair when you approve work. Call (325) 331-4829 or schedule below.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won't my gas oven heat?
A weak igniter is the most common cause. It may glow or click but not draw enough current to open the gas valve.
Why won't my electric oven heat?
Usually a burned-out bake element. If bake works but broil doesn't, it's the broil element.
Should I repair or replace my oven?
Element and igniter repairs are almost always worth it. For a control board on an older range, use the 50% rule.